Antique Zoltan White Austro Hungarian Sterling Silver & Garnet Brooch

The word "Bohemian" comes from the region of Bohemia, a kingdom which later became Czechoslovakia. The light red garnet gemstones actually come from the Perpignan mines in southern France which are now closed to mining.  In the Victorian Era, and up to the turn of the century these were the most desirable garnets. They were often set into silver or lower karat gold settings to be more accessible to the Middle Class.

The glow and hue of the garnets backed in pink foil has given these garnets the look of Perpignan stones, which were reportedly rose cut rather than cabochon cut. 

Austria-Hungary was a constitutional monarchy that was created in 1867 and was dissolved in 1918.  During this short period of time, many opulent, dramatic pieces of jewelry were produced. Close in proximity to Germany and Italy, Renaissance Revival style was a significant influence. Gothic, Biblical and Mythical themes were prevalent, as was the use of closely clustered jewels, both genuine and paste.

The Austro-Hungarian style was embraced by a designer named Zoltan White whose London jewelry business operated from 1910-Circa 1950. 

This fabulous brooch, set in sterling silver, features a large oval cabochon garnet, that is foiled and surrounded by a ring of eight silver flowers, punctuated by more round foiled garnet cabochons, and finally haloed in ten oval cabochons.  With a final floral motif in the center of the piece riveting the stone to the mount, it presents a cohesive, luscious package that looks ripe for the picking!

Circa 1910-1920

Details (approximate)

Dimensions: 2" x 1 1/2"

Weight: 19.1 grams

Materials: Silver, garnet

Metal: Sterling Silver

Marks: STERLING, ZW Co

Condition: Excellent antique condition

LORL, LOE